Stéphane Aviron has adopted an almost radical return to tradition in Beaujolais: sustainable viticulture, extremely old vines and classic Burgundian techniques. His cru Beaujolais drink like fine Burgundy. Historically considered “poor man’s Burgundy,” a modern movement toward fruity, simple, quaffing wines boosted sales but eroded the region’s traditional quality. Stéphane Aviron has reversed the trend. By focusing on the Beaujolais village crus, the best sites for unique, expressive wines, and finding old parcels of vines, Aviron creates very expressive, age-worthy wines relying on traditional and new methods, including organic and biodynamic vineyard management. All wines are labeled “Vieilles Vignes,” old vines, because the vines are at least 40 years old. Stéphane Aviron’s wines are authentic in every way.
The Morgon Côte du Py is Stéphane Aviron’s most structured, earthy wine, that is drinkable now and can age wonderfully for as much as ten years. The grapes are sourced from the slopes of an 1150-foot inactive volcano that is regarded as one of the top terroirs in all of Beaujolais. Vines face due south on a well-pitched hillside of volcanic soils with schist and blue stone.
This wine is a brilliant example of Gamay’s shape-shifting qualities. The color is deeper than most Beaujolais, which isn’t surprising given the Côte du Py’s reputation for concentration. Aromas are brisk and invigorating, but hard to pin down, shifting from blackberries to savory plum; violets, tomato leaf and mushroom as it opens up. Medium body, medium acidity, very juicy in its fruit tones, with hardly any tannin.
