The beautiful rolling slopes of the Horse Heaven Hills AVA in Washington’s Columbia Valley would make a perfect backdrop for any blockbuster Western movie. The dramatic, windswept landscape meets crystal clear blue skies, and you can’t help thinking that somewhere close by, there’s a posse getting ready to ride off into the sunset. The picturesque albeit brutal landscape and the harsh arid climate punish the vines — history has taught us that suffering vines always produce the best wines.
Early settlers established vast networks of horse and cattle ranches and prospered until harsh winds, brutal temperatures, and arid conditions plagued the region for decades. Fast-forward to the early 1970s when Don and Linda Mercer planted the first grapes. They were the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in what is now known as the “Champoux Vineyard,” one of Washington State’s most famous and celebrated vineyards.
The Mercer family is a true steward of the land. They’re farmers and certainly viticulturists; however, they prefer to be considered Agriculturists — adhering to strict environmental and social values to respect and protect the land. In addition to world-class wine production, their diversified holdings span 12,000 acres of farmland along the Columbia River — including acres of carrots, garlic, corn. kale, wheat, potatoes, onions, and broccoli.
In the glass, this velvety blend of 50% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 8% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot, and 2% Mourvedre opens with aromas of mocha, black and red berry compote combine with hints of baking spice and subtle smoky oak spice framing the plush fruit. The gorgeous red and blue fruit notes on the middle palate are framed by plum, blueberry jam, vanilla, and gentle oak spice, all nicely lingering through the lengthy finish. The palate is super silky, with perfectly ripe, soft tannins.
retail $18-$20
pow $14